Endocrine disruptors and cosmetics: what you need to know

What is an endocrine disruptor?

The endocrine system includes the glands that produce hormones: thyroid, adrenals, ovaries, testicles, etc. These hormones regulate numerous body functions, from growth to metabolism.

According to the WHO definition (2002), adopted by the Federal Office of Public Health, an endocrine disruptor is a substance or mixture outside the organism that alters the functions of this system and causes adverse effects on an organism, its offspring, or a population.

Two nuances are important:

• Suspected is not proven. A substance may be studied for potential endocrine-disrupting properties without those properties being demonstrated.
• Dose and exposure matter. Authorities evaluate the quantity to which a person is actually exposed, based on the type of product and its usage.

How are cosmetics regulated?

In Europe

Cosmetics sold in the European Union are subject to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. Its annexes list banned substances and those authorized under specific conditions (maximum concentration, product type, mandatory labeling). When an ingredient is suspected, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety evaluates it, and the European Commission updates the annexes.

A concrete example: in 2022, two UV filters, octocrylene and benzophenone-3, had their maximum concentrations lowered after an evaluation focusing, among other things, on possible endocrine-disrupting properties. The new limits have applied since 2023.

In Switzerland

According to the Federal Food Safety and Veterinary Office, the European regulation also applies to Switzerland, in the version in force in the EU, with some exceptions set by the Ordinance on Cosmetics. Therefore, the same lists of banned and restricted substances apply to cosmetics sold in Switzerland.

Where can I find reliable information?

Source	What you will find there
ECHA	Substances currently being evaluated for their endocrine-disrupting properties in Europe
ED Lists	Public lists maintained by several European national authorities, which distinguish identified substances from those being evaluated
FSVO	Rules applicable to cosmetic ingredients in Switzerland

These lists evolve: a substance may be added for evaluation and later removed, or conversely, it may become restricted.

How do I read a label?

1. The INCI list is ordered by decreasing quantity for ingredients present at more than 1%. The first ingredients are therefore those present in the highest amounts.
2. The names are international (INCI), often in Latin for plants and English for other ingredients. You can search for them one by one in the sources above.
3. Fragrance allergens must be declared above certain thresholds.
4. A "free-from" claim does not replace the INCI list. It only provides information about one absent ingredient: the full list of ingredients remains the most reliable information.

Our approach at Belle Luce

Rather than a "free-from" claim, we prefer transparency:

• our formulas are based primarily on plant-based active ingredients and ingredients of identified origin;
• we favor short formulas, which are easier to read;
• the complete INCI list for every skincare product, including fragrance allergens, is available on its product page.

Like every cosmetic sold in Switzerland and Europe, each of our formulas undergoes a safety evaluation by an expert before being placed on the market.

To learn more: How does Belle Luce choose the ingredients for its skincare?

Frequently Asked Questions

Can cosmetics contain endocrine disruptors?

Certain cosmetic ingredients are evaluated or suspected for potential endocrine-disrupting properties. When the evaluation shows a risk, they are banned or their concentration is limited, as was the case for two UV filters in 2022.

Are endocrine disruptors banned in cosmetics in Switzerland?

There is no general ban on "all endocrine disruptors." Substances are evaluated one by one and then banned or restricted in the annexes of the European regulation, which also applies to Switzerland.

How do I know if my cosmetic contains them?

By reading the INCI list on the packaging and searching for the ingredients in the public lists from ECHA or ED Lists.

Is a "free from endocrine disruptors" claim reliable?

Regulatory authorities consider this type of claim unverifiable, due to the lack of a regulatory definition that would allow it to be monitored. The full INCI list remains the most reliable source of information for knowing what a product contains.

Sources: WHO (2002), definition adopted by the Federal Office of Public Health; FSVO, regulated substances in cosmetic products; Commission Regulation (EU) 2022/1176; ECHA; ED Lists; DGCCRF, "free-from" claims in cosmetic products.